2016年6月26日 星期日

air conditioning cooling system failed.....when customer on board.

I have been tested the air conditioning system once the board is at Ma Kun, especially with crews who need to stay on boat in the night, since company did not prepare room on land for them....the weather is very very hot.....without conditioning, it could be very  difficult to sleep, and I don't wish them to lack of sleep. On the sea, you need them to be in good condition.
one night, the generator shows yellow flash as warning sign. But, can't found things wrong.
the manual says only reset it. So I turn it off and wish it can works normally next day.....

those 2 days works fine, one the day of activity, we start the generator and turns on the air conditioning10 minutes later , it cease to work. @#$%^&*&^%$#$%^&*........the customers are already on the peer.......

open the startboard aft cabin, under the bed, there is the sea cock of cooling system, remove the filter, there is few piece of plastic. clear and try, no luck......

remove the hose from sea cock, and open the seacock, no water float in, it seems to be blocked.....
 there is no time to go under water to check it.

Vola, only a plastic bag...that is enough to stop your machine.



After clearning out every thing, and make sure seawater flow into vabin smoothly(strange experience....)

then you need to fill in water in every hoses, to prevent vacancy, other wise the pump can't  work....

so the air conditioning finally works.....

But after half day sailing, the air conditioning stop again.....

I believe there is not plastic bag(since we are sailing, not big change to catch plastics.)

It could be the air in the pipe cause the problem.

I can't stop plastic in to my pipe, but I wish to have a chance to prevent the air problem. 

also plan to lower inlet filter, to reduce the resistance to the pump.


Stern platform fail to active.....when customers on board......

The stern platform of B51 is  electrical, the winch pulls up the platform with a string.
Looks great at first look, but soon....
2 questions come in my mind:
1.what if the winch failed, how we can release it, or pull it up?
2. if the sting breaks, how to fix the platform in up position? there is no extra holes on the platform where I can hold it....

the day before pen Hu regatta, while wahsing the boat, we wish to lower the platform to clear up, inn the mid way, the platform cease to go low,  but only can get winch up...
we first winch it up, and try to find out where is the problem. the manual only descript the switch is located on the startboard side, and the control unit is located in the port side, after cabin(the in side of it.)
 while opening the hatch, I found a winch motor, a relay and a big black control terminal. (where you can see garmin navigation unit get power from it.)
 the small black relay is quite hot....very hot...

the question is that : there are a lot of wires, but nothing get labeled, lacking wiring information, schematic, control diagram, we have no idea how the thing works, there fore there is no way to know which on is which one. I can nto believe this is a german product. according to CE rules, every wire has to be labeled, and can be found in a chart, other wise, there is no one can repair this system.

So, our customer pass a tour without platform to get close to beautiful waters.


26/6 when back to  Ma Kun, Mou start to look into the system, we start to try something without and diagram on hand.(which is risky in my knowledge.)

The first Mou found is that there is a rotate part after the winch, he tried to rotate it, and suddenly the platform drop down, this for sure surprised every one.

The rotate part located in a very deep place, you have no way to see it with eyes. after taking a photo with mobile, we release that it's a clutch, rotated ti one way to engage the winch, another way to release it.




but motor is still not working. and now we can't get the platform up.
we unmout the black control block, and dis assemble it, and finally found out a little bit, how this work.

the black one will keep the + and - of motor both on battery negative. if one control enable, it will switch one wire of motor to battery +, if another control active, it would  switch another motor wire
 to battery +. This is how it control motor rotate  in 2 different direction.

But there are still 2 position limit switch, one is located on the deck, near the hanging wire of platform. the other one is a switch inside the cabin, near the winch.



The inside one, seems lost contact with wire, but we can't really understand how it is designed.

after few try, we found out that the out side limit switch controls the the relay, which by some way, feed in control info.  so the relay is always on when the platform is at up position. Which means it is always active, once service battery switch is on.( I believe the relay is a chinese one, by that quality, it is normally hot, wondering when it can get on fire.....)

Which trying, Mou found out that the only problem comes from the pulling wire is out of the limit switch on the winch side. Simply re-mount the wire, and it can be active.

the design seems first check the limit switches, when the wire tension is low, then it can't be switched lower. the winch can only be pulled up. when the upper switch is touched by platform(means the platform is on up position), you can only switch down the platform.

Nice design, but the wiring is terrible, we need control chart and wiring diagram in case we need to repair it again.

The power of stern platform need to be separated with an independent switch, so that the limit detection switch won't always active the relay. The relay is very very hot, and bolted on wood, this worrys me from time to time.

2016年6月20日 星期一

2016/06/20 冰箱...好像少了個架子


37的冰箱裡有一塊lemon, 所以沒什麼味道,51上也想如法炮製.....
切好了, 發現.....沒有上面的架子可以放耶......應該是少了.....


2016/06/20 generator battery switch / connector replacement

之前說到,這個 battery switch的 connector, 趁著壓線的工具都到齊了,就接著地線的工程後就繼續改善.....

開始之前,先把電池的正極端子解開,想避免意外....
結果意外發現, 這個端子也是尺寸不對, 施工的人把它剪開來夾上去的....@4@@#$%^^%$$#
等一下一起換掉吧....





































那我就很矛盾的想起上次檢查時, 我看到的是好的啊?

原來我上次看的是負極, 神奇的是,負極的螺絲是用 8mm......正極的是10mm.......
說不出哪裡不對,但是我好像沒看過不一樣大小的配置.....






這是switch那邊兩頭都拆下來之後的樣子....


剪掉....通通照著地線那篇講的方法重作.....




先將switch固定螺絲,再鎖一次...
順邊標了一下哪邊是電池端......

 電池那端的正極也重新剪掉重做.....標上正極.....很不習慣正極是用黑線.....
原廠只要是正極,就是是用紅線.....



接頭的處理是ok了,可是有一些東西我覺得要改善.....
下圖是把柴油管路跟battery switch的電線直接綁在一起....
這個做法,我沒看過, 說不上有啥一定會出錯的,但就是覺得不放心.....
再加上旁邊就是引擎柴油濾心的架子, 邊邊很利....說不會磨到我是不相信....
這部分我會再做改善.....
先用另一條固定束帶,把整捆線先拉開那個架子....




下圖是原廠 engine battery switch的捆線, 基本上都是電線, 大power的線都有用管子套著,我也想這樣做...
他們很嚴謹,管子的末端還有用熱縮套,避免異物進入....(這樣就有像德國人做的東西了...)

量一下兩隻電線的寬度,大約是2.5cm, 回去再找1"的套管....
我不太認為澎湖有這個....


2016/06/20 引擎副水箱水管固定

之前說到副水箱有根固定水管的束帶,螺絲沒有鎖到木板,垂在下面....
這次順便買了比較短但是有尖頭可以鑽木頭的螺絲....


不幸的很,空間還是不夠我把螺絲起子伸進去....
好在牟有再工具箱多備了一組90度的小工具組....
這才能順利的鎖進去.....



順道減掉多餘的束帶頭....

2016/06/20 Mast 到 keel的地線


這部分的地線要求很粗, 看看37的就很粗.....

這麼粗的線材還真是不好找.....
光華商場分了3家才買齊了...
1. 22mm2 10mm洞的端子
2. 4 AWG的線(這是電源線的等級,雖然現場還有2 AWG的線,但是全光華商場沒有2 AWG 可以用的端子) .....2 awg約是33mm2, 4 awg 約是 21mm2
3.夠大的壓線鉗 ,  你可以用driver跟 hammer 土炮, 不過風險是壓不夠牢,失去大線徑的意義....乖乖的買....
4. 帶膠的熱縮套...多芯軟線最怕的就是在接頭處開始氧化, 多心線的接觸面積大, 本來就容易氧化....帶膠的可以封得更好....

這些東西其實很重....坐飛機的時候我就超重了....(因為我以為國內線也是一個人20kg@#$%^&)

這兩個的紀離其實不大.....不過我還是先做一邊,再來合長度


剝皮,剛好長就好.....用刀片一點一點切,不希望切掉導線....


拔掉切開的外皮前,先剪一段熱縮套,套進去.....


 注意線有完全進端子,慢慢施壓.....

前方再補一下.....



土炮沒法這麼完美的把線擠緊....


前端我有趁熱的時候用鉗子壓一下...讓他貼一點....


把有可能擋到的地方去除熱縮套....


鎖上, 其實只有一條,上面那一部分是反射的象....



Mast旁邊有兩隻 T15的星型螺絲, 有一隻沒鎖到底,而且是歪的....
工具箱裡有星型板手,可是這個空間實在沒法施工....可能要可以套在套筒上的星形工具,再用接桿下去鎖....奇怪, 另一邊是怎麼鎖的.....另一邊鎖的很好說....
update 7/2/2016 : Mou來,重鎖一隻下去了

2016/06/20 房門的門扣

交船的時候, 我有拿到4組門扣, 兩個大些兩個小些....
趁著這次回台北去配了螺絲來....


問題來了,這 51很多門,三個房間, 三個廁所, 一間浴室.....有的廁所還有兩個門......
那這四個是要裝哪哩??

以通風為考量, 就先裝三個房間門,廁所,浴室門就先不裝了....雖然我覺得廁所門打開比較不會臭....

我的習慣是先用比螺絲小一點的鑽頭鑽洞, 再鎖螺絲, 一來比較好鎖, 二來有的木頭硬鎖會有裂痕.....


先套好位置,畫好圈再鑽,沒有電動工具,先用手鑽,....


新的鑽頭很利, 很好鑽....


鎖好一邊,再合一次,確認位置....
雖然多花點時間,但是可以避免很蠢的意外....


2016/6/20 船後的安全纜

Bavaria系列的船,後面是跳水板,上方則是用兩條鋼纜保護....

前一陣子去台琉杯,晚上被忽然鬆脫的的纜繩嚇了一跳.....跳水板也是會自動跳脫的....
回程都是用束帶綁死....晚上被跳開很可怕....

回來之後,發現是快扣很鬆,而且插銷好像比以前的33短(也許只是錯覺....)

想法適用個束帶,把快扣頭的環,往下壓...這樣就不會讓pin 跑出來了....

不過51的跳水板是電動的, 沒有固定扣....不知道萬一拉繩斷了,或故障時怎麼辦.....




2016年6月19日 星期日

2016/06/19 好久不見 B51 seacock leak....B37 pipe wet

自從6/13號去七美之後,就沒有再看過這兩條了....
一早坐了6:45松山 to 馬公的飛機....台北很美,但是房子多了點...

機場叫車是200NTD, 排班的是350喔....
坐到第一漁港,司機大姊說這裡叫復興港....好吧....


兩台的纜都還好,51的舵似乎有被轉過,我走前有轉到中間再固定一下...

第一件事當然是去看引擎室, 51的coolant看來是沒有洩漏,引擎下還有一點點,可能是沒擦乾淨....發起引擎後,水位稍微增高,沒有漏的現象...

seacock那就問題很明顯了....之前的積水應該是 seacock把手那造成的...


鐵環邊,有點濕潤,我認為可能是潮濕的關係....
澎湖這裡連洗衣粉放室內都會自己濕掉...如果之前有點鹽分在那,那濕潤是剛好而已....



窗外的standing rigging吸引了我的目光, 好像少了點東西.....是不是要插個pin....

51d的boom很長,裡面的out haul很會唱歌 .....我拉得很緊也沒有改善....奇怪是,今天也沒啥風啊...
這晚上很吵吧....





順道檢查了一下51的保健箱....兩光....
我想去補些酒精棉片,碘酒, ok band....這一類處理小割傷的東西....



接下來檢查了一下37, 引擎室是乾的, 但是後艙排氣管那有點小水滴.....

看不出是否是補焊的地方有漏,有可能也是潮濕的關係....
澎湖人對這種東西叫: 海醃.....基本上衣服放在外面過夜,最後會是鹹的濕的....


Update: 2016/7/4

今天再度觀察, 這個sea cock 還是有漏,且是銹水,不知道哪天會斷





2016年6月16日 星期四

工程人員的細節....B51 generator battery switch...engine room.....power distribution board...

前一篇談到發電機施工的木屑, 我後來又找到一些東西,讓我有所感觸....

6/12 預計會有鋒面跟雷雨來襲, 6點起床後就到碼頭上去看這一大一下....
先把51的前後纜都各加一條, 之後風雨就上來了....

希拉可搖得快樂嘞.....





希拉每次往後飄,繩子就會在最後被扯一下,51就會像是被拉了一腿....
這時我就想起凱文在碧砂的彈簧法, 彈簧可以讓繩子的受力慢慢上來,而不是最後從很小一下到很大....
51這邊因為有用彈力繩去拉高纜繩,所以也有點這樣的作用....
下次來問張凱文是買多少力量的彈簧....(這位先生嘴很犀利,但是心其實蠻細的...)

先看了一下希拉,很好,沒有任何漏水的跡象....感恩...

51是新船,一樣一樣慢慢看....
前艙的浴室,一直從把手中間漏水....


看起來好像上蓋不平.....
雨變小時,打開從上面解開,發現O ring沒裝好, 重新裝進溝槽後,鎖回就好了....
得國的組裝稍微有點兩光....


51的門,打開時有一邊不太好扣, 仔細看一下發現是位置不準...
本想把座拆下來重鎖,因為只差一點點....不過座有上膠, 不好拆,就用膠槌稍為調整門的位置,就好很多....
奇怪的是,另一邊的門相對應的座,為什麼就沒上膠勒.....(2016/6/20 update: Sorry, 其實兩邊都有...我看錯了)

這條船的施工讓我有點疑惑....
之前的引擎室木屑,發電機電池不做固定, 管束鎖到管子破了.....這一切還只是開始吧...
今天趁著風雨再查一下吧~
通常最常找到的是剪下來的束帶頭....不是甚麼大問題,但是很煩....到處都是...


這個木工裝儀表切下來的,大約直徑10cm....撿起來不是好一些嗎...

 保險絲,配電盤整的不錯,雖然看的出有些是再加裝的...

配電盤下面這一坨,整理一下不好嗎?



再看下去...兩光的部分來了....
發電機也有個 battery power switch....很難去看到,要不是要清引擎室,我也不會去看...

第一眼只覺得怪怪的,怎摸會這樣鎖....
都快碰到了....



































用手機伸進去照一張, 不會吧....
連固定螺絲都沒鎖好....

快快鎖上.....


































拆下來看,被羅母夾到的一邊,受力不均,已經被壓出痕了, 拆下來就斷了......



這個端子的規格不對, 螺絲是10mm的, 但是他是用8mm的小端子去鑽成10mm的,這時周邊的肉就變得很單薄.....
趕快看看電池那端.....電池那端用的倒是正常規格10mm的端子...真奇怪.....

大電流講求的是接觸面積, 端子的選擇應該跟著線徑及螺絲,羅母的大小去選....
銅線的部分應該上膠或有膠的熱縮套減少跟空氣接觸的機會...雖然很難完全避免氧化,但總是會改善一些....

這種隨便弄一弄的做法, 勉強只能修摩托車....

手邊完全沒有工具, 只能盡量靠近,重新鎖上,盡量讓下面吃到較多的面積....
這樣不完全的端子,也不能用力鎖太緊,因為羅母受力不平均....
發電機是可以啟動....但是我想還是要讓這個部分正確...

回台北再去光華商場找機絲吧.....也順便準備地線....
交船人員告訴我原廠不再負責mast到keel的地線.....好吧....點交清單上也沒這項....
這時又剛好打雷了.....**&^&^^#$%@#$%^.....
去37上看地線, 最少也4 AWG吧!!
一次買好材料來搞定...


感想:
這些細節, 其實就是區分工程人員的價值所在.....

我們的文化很難讓我們像日本人一樣仔細, 但是我們有必要讓自己提升....或著是說拉到該有的水準....
這台不是光陽....他畢盡是 Bavaria啊~